ACT Montebania – An Adventure Between Mountains and Memories
When the linesmen scouted and published the ACT Montenegro & Albania track, they promised a ride that would test both rider and machine. Six stages, 1150 kilometers, and a difficulty level high enough that even seasoned off-roaders are advised to come well-prepared — and never ride alone. Starting high in Montenegro’s Durmitor National Park and ending near the Greek border at Leskovik, this ACT links perfectly with ACT Croatia and ACT Greece, weaving through wild, remote mountain terrain often above 1000 meters. The warnings were clear: sudden weather changes, snow outside high season, hard stony climbs, deep ruts, and cliffside tracks that demand experience, confidence, and a cool head. But the reward? Some of the most breathtaking views in the Balkans, and the feeling of truly earning every single kilometre.
Getting There – The Road to the Start
It took us three full days just to reach the starting point — and yes, it was absolutely worth it. We trailered the bikes down to Karlobag in Croatia, left the car and trailer with a friend, and switched to two wheels. Traveling light this time (no camping gear, just essentials), we cut across scenic backroads into Bosnia and Herzegovina, where we overnighted near the Blue Lake in Grabovica (Blue Lake Luxury Rooms). The place was so beautiful and welcoming we almost wanted to stay… but the trail was calling.
Crossing into Montenegro, we followed the dazzling blue Piva River up into the mountains and found ourselves on a remote farm tucked into the slopes of Mount Ljeljenak (Katun Ljeljenak). Peaceful, raw, and magical — the perfect prelude to the days ahead.
Montenegro – Straight into the Deep End
From the very first minutes on the trail, ACT Montenegro let us know it wasn’t going to play nice. A turn off the asphalt and suddenly we were in the thick of rocky tracks and high-mountain farmland. The scenery was spectacular, the terrain demanding, and a creeping storm kept us pushing forward. By evening, soaked but smiling, we rolled into a cozy bungalow site right by the Albanian border (ETHNO STAR Bojović). Stories around the fire with another fellow rider set the tone: this was going to be proper adventure. 
Albania – Old Ghosts and New Roads
Crossing into Albania, we decided to take things at our own pace. The iconic SH20 road gave us spectacular twists and views, and Lake Shkodra Camping turned into the perfect spot to slow down and recharge. It was the right call: the following day brought the legendary Theth loop. Once feared and infamous, it’s now fully paved (to Theth) or prepared for asphalting (from Theth to Prekal). For us, it was also personal. Nine years ago, this track ended Agata’s ride with a broken wrist. Returning here felt like unfinished business. This time, the road was smooth, the ride confident, and the old demon defeated.
Ferry Rides and Mountain Highs
The next challenge was Lake Koman. First came a bone-rattling 60 km “road” that nearly cost us our schedule, then the legendary ferry crossing itself – three hours of dreamlike scenery. On the other side, the ride twisted along dams and cliffs before diving back into forests and off-road. We even managed to miss the notorious Hellbania section by accident – much to Joris’s disappointment (and Agata’s relief). That night we ended up in a family-run “mini castle” (N’Kanu), swapping road stories with other ACT riders.
Rocky Climbs and Biker Bonding
The following days blended rough gravel climbs, alpine lakes, surprise stretches of perfect asphalt, and cities that felt both rough-edged and warmly welcoming. Elbasan was a mix of potholes, gold-trimmed hotels (Hotel Panorama), and biker camaraderie (we kept bumping into the same riders stage after stage). Berat, on the other hand, was pure magic – Albania’s UNESCO-listed “City of a Thousand Windows,” where we rode our bikes straight into the medieval castle and watched the sun set over terracotta rooftops. And again spent the night in a super-fancy hotel (Hotel Colombo).
The Grand Finale
By the last stage, we were running on equal parts exhaustion and excitement. The hard section promised “Hell 2.0,” and with the heat and fatigue, we gave it a miss. Instead, we carved through endless twists of flawless new tarmac, detoured onto goat trails just to see what was there (spoiler: nothing worth it), and eventually rolled into Leskovik. The finish line was no dusty checkpoint – it was Melesin Distillery, where gin tastings, hearty food, and incredible hospitality gave us the best possible ending.
The Road Home
Of course, the story didn’t end there. We still had over 1000 km to reach our car and trailer, and a Balkan heatwave to make things extra “fun.” There were coffees at roadside bars, another night by Lake Shkodra, and one final rest stop with our hosts in Karlobag. By the time we rolled back into Poland (with a short stopover in Czechia), two weeks had vanished in a blur of mountains, dust, heat, laughter, and stories.
And that’s ACT Montebania – a ride that lived up to every promise of challenge and beauty. A test, a reward, and an adventure we’ll never forget.
Where to next?
Route
Video
Coming soon
Daily Shorts